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The barrel of the closer goes into a hole drilled in the hinge edge of the door and the face plate is recessed flush with the door. The second faceplate with chain attached is recessed and screwed to the adjacent door frame.
The way it works is that the chain is spring loaded (the barrel contains a very strong spring),as you open the door this tensions the spring so that when you let go of the door the spring pulls it shut
Hi M, these push catches will be perfectly adequate to operate your doors. What is very important with any type of pressure catch is that the hinges must be UNsprung. The catch cannot open the door whilst fighting with a sprung hinge.
Regarding the drawers - these won't be up to the job as drawers tend to be much heavier. There are proprietary drawer push catches. The Flexa Touch drawer latch operates in the same way as a pressure catch for doors but is much stronger so that it can push the weight of the drawer and its contents. These will only work on drawers with smooth running modern drawer runners.
The ducting kit contains the following items:
The tube screws into one of the threaded hose connectors. the hose connector then pushes over the spiggot on the extractor. If the connector is a little loose then it can be glued/siliconed or taped with duct tape. If it is very loose then discard the connector and push the hose directly onto hood spiggot and fasten with a hose clip (like a giant jubilee clip).
At the wall end either use the wall plate or connector (or both glued together) to fix to wall (or further ducting) and seal all round with silicone or mastic.
The external grille screws to the outside of the wall.
If the hole in your unit is 120mm then you will need the 5' ducting kit. The internal diameter of the threaded connector in 5' kit is 120mm so it should fit over your spiggot OK.
Lay the worktops to be joined upside down and butt them together as they will be fitted. Decide where you are going to position each worktop connector and draw a pencil line across the joint. Extend each mark, perpendicular to the edge of the worktop, at least 100mm in from the edge. On each line you need to drill or rout a 35mm diameter, 20mm deep blind hole in the under side of each piece of worktop to be connected, centre of hole approx 80mm from the joint edge. From the hole to the joint edge rout or saw and chisel a 10mm wide channel, 20mm deep. Place the wortop pieces the right way up in position on the kitchen base units and line them up. Insert the worktop connectors in the dumbell shaped holes and tighten them up with a 10mm spanner. They provide a very strong joint.
Tip - apply a thin film of translucent silicone sealant to the cut edge of each piece of the worktop just before assembly. This will assist in gluing the worktops together and waterproofing the cut edges. Once you have tightened the worktop connectors wipe off the excess silicone from the work surface. I have used translucent silicone for this purpose on many different coloured worktops - it is much less visible than a coloured filler that doesn't quite match the worktop colour.
Modesty blocks can be used in many ways when fitting kitchen units, for example:
Those are just a few of the possible applications of modesty blocks when fitting a kitchen. The way you would use them is to align the two components to be fixed together, hold the modesty block in the corner and screw the block to one of the units being fixed, through the hole provided. Then screw through the holes in the other face to complete the fixing.